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Article: The Map of Athletic Performance

In Uncategorized | on September, 21, 2012 | by

For whatever small role I played in contributing to CrossFit’s popularity within the mountain communities, I apologize. For many in those and other communities, it has brought some value, but for others it has taken away. No longer climbing as much, suffering unnecessary injury or using irrelevant markers that have nothing to do with performance […]

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Intensity, Starting Strength and The Map

In General Training, Uncategorized | on September, 18, 2015 | by

This article is about the role intensity plays in training. Prompted by a conversation I had with a few other coaches during an interview hosted by Power Athlete Radio, it is an example of how merging opinions have the potential to improve the clarity of one’s own ideas. Having never discussed the subject of training […]

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General Adaptations are Persistent

In Climbing, General Training | on July, 04, 2013 | by

The overemphasis of cardiorespiratory endurance and conditioning within mainstream consciousness impacts us all, and not necessarily for the better.  The collective assumption that “conditioning is good” is accurate, but this is true only to a point. For many people it’s usefulness has long run it’s course and has become a specific adaptation… more akin (in […]

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Leverage, Intensity & Debunking Two Training Myths

In Climbing | on June, 29, 2013 | by

Generally speaking, vertical to steep rock climbing is about leveraging your body into position with four points of contact– two hands & two feet. These four points are used to arrive at a body position that allows us to let go and move one of our points to reach the next hand hold and control […]

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Intermediate Programming

In Uncategorized | on March, 17, 2012 | by

It’s easy to get the most out of your regularly scheduled climbing as an intermediate climber. In fact, this deliberate approach of using the climbing you are already doing IS TRAINING!  It’s all the “training” you’ll ever need to do as an intermediate climber. The one simple thing that most climbers are missing for maintaining […]

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Important Training Distinction for Climbers

In Uncategorized | on March, 14, 2012 | by

From a training perspective, there is a necessary distinction between two different kinds of non-team sports. They are Repeating Motor Pathway Sports and Non-Repeating Motor Pathway Sports, each having their own limitations and requirements for maintaining a high level of effectiveness during training cycles. Examples of repeating motor pathway sports are weightlifting, running, swimming or […]

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Simple Intermediate Progression

In Uncategorized | on January, 31, 2012 | by

The word “training” doesn’t conjure up the same idea for everyone. What comes to mind for a lot of climbers is not even climbing but something called supplemental training: an activity besides climbing that is specifically meant to improve one’s ability. Examples of a few methods are the hang board, the campus board and weighted […]

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Residual Fatigue

In Uncategorized | on January, 07, 2012 | by

In climbers, residual fatigue is one the most common obstacles to improving one’s overall baseline level of ability. Not being able to recognize and identify when the body is sufficiently recovered makes it extremely difficult to know when it’s productive to physically stress the system again. Without stress there is no adaptation but without proper […]

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